Tassie or Bust

“You boys going to Tassie?”

Those words rang out from a thick Aussie accent on the rainy tarmac of Essendon Fields Airport. Nodding yes, we boarded the 19-seat prop plane to begin our two-island journey through some of the best seaside golf in Tasmania, Australia.

King Island was the first stop on our expedition, where we loaded up our vintage rental car, a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder. A short jaunt from the airport, we arrived at Ocean Dunes before we could figure out how the radio worked, and we were greeted by the general manager, the only other soul at the course. The tiny 500 square foot box perched high above the course housed the pro-shop and restaurant in one. The wind and rain were howling, as we grabbed a quick bite before venturing out to play.

It’s not hard to forget about your score at Ocean Dunes. The stunning setting and thoughtful holes allow your mind to wander. But don’t wander too far, as the wildlife and elements are all around you. Snakes, wallabies, wind, and rain are a constant reminder of how raw this experience can be. Upon completing our round at Ocean Dunes, we shook off the cold rain and packed up to head to the other side of the island to Cape Wickham.

I’ve always loved golf courses that have practice greens that run seamless into the first tee. The tightly mown grass leaves little hesitation that you made the right choice in playing this course. The front 9 at Cape Wickham meanders along the ocean with a few inland holes to return to the clubhouse. As you begin the backside at Cape, you realize each hole is focused on the Cape Wickham Light on one of the tallest lighthouses in the southern hemisphere. Its towering presence is calming as you pivot back towards the finishing stretch of holes. Coming home along the water reminds us of that fine line between the man-made taming of earth that is a golf course and the unconquered power of the sea especially on a windy day.

Onward to Barnbougle.

Barnbougle is a stunning stretch of land split by the mouth of the Great Forester River. A diverse interpretation of two by the game’s best golf architects leaves any consummate golfer satisfied. The Dunes was built first by Tom Doak and has the feeling that the golf course had always been there. The walk winds you out to the farthest point of the property to Reg’s Hut. Inside you’ll find a bit of history on the beginning of Barnbougle before walking along the thin path atop the dunes overlooking the ocean. From here you’ll make your way back towards the clubhouse taking in the swales and hollows of traditional links golf. The back nine feels much more open with the finishing holes right up against the Great Forester River and views of Lost Farm. This golf course is an absolute treat to play and staying on property lets you immerse yourself in the nuances of the game.

Barnbougle Lost Farm designed by Coore & Crenshaw is the perfect bookend to the Dunes. This 20-hole course features a decidedly different feel than its neighbor over the river. Its unique routing quickly brings you out to the fourth hole and Sally’s Point named for the owner’s wife who dreamt of building a home here one day. This hole is the launch pad for the rest of the course and from there it’s all downhill. Meandering through the dunes along the Great Forester River, the course routes around the clubhouse and finishes in style along the ocean. There are two additional par 3’s built in the routing to give certain holes a rest and to settle those fiercely contested matches. This idea of building extra holes is consistent throughout the rest of Australia with some of the best in the Sandbelt – perhaps another chapter in The Briar. 

Tassie & King Island do not disappoint and if you plan to fly half-way around the world to play golf in Australia or perhaps you live there, these extraordinary golf courses must be on your list.

-TFC

#travelfurther